While the full bloom of the machair was
past, the grass still held a mosaic of color: yellow asters and
purple thistles, small violets. Here and there a poppy still clung to
its petals. Unique to the Outer Hebrides, this grassland ecosystem
relies on the sand dunes augmented by a multitude of shell fragments.
The calcium enriched sand hosts a diverse array of endemic plants:
the machair.
A sandy track lead us out past the
ancient remains of round houses, circular stone foundations excavated
from a bowl in the dunes. And then on, out to the sea. We looked
across the North Atlantic into the wind. The sloping white sand beach
softened the surf. Oystercatchers, plovers and stilts probed the
piles of kelp on the falling tide, looking for morsels.
We turned northward eschewing the
blazed trail of the Machair Way for hard-packed beach and the ocean's
company.
The sweep of dunes, and inscribed
tracings of blowing grass reminded me of Cape Cod, just there, south
and west across the sea. I remembered walking on that Atlantic shore
for hours, as the wind whipped through the insufficient protection of
my clothing. But the sun here, was warm; the breeze refreshed rather
than chilled.
A dead gannet caught my eye, feathers
wet and sand-caked, set in a still life of kelp and drift wood. My
aunt, a photographer, captured such scenes of found sculpture on
film, and offered the viewer a chance to see through her eyes. I
followed the wrack line searching for treasures. I toed a fishing
float, bent for a feather, a limpet shell, a bone.
I searched the wrack line for wishing
stones, remembering my dear friend Jen who spent hours seeking out
the palm-perfect rocks, traced clear around with a vein of some other
mineral. It was these she offered as favors at her wedding. I stooped
to pick one up, brushing off the sand and sliding it into my pocket
to give her upon my return.
Walking mesmerizes. Objects spark
memories and the mind wanders. And then something else, the ebbing
tide, the glimmer of light on water catches the eye and draws this
moment into focus. I watched the shift of clouds and light, the
antics of wading birds and gulls. I breathed in the 4,000 miles of
sea air, clean and cold and full of the tang of salt. Gazing out
across the Atlantic, perched on this outer rim of earth, I was
suffused with gratitude this sweet, simple life, for all the places
my feet have walked, and for the company I have kept.
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