25 July 2014

Quotidian


Antony Gormley's 6 Times, Leith

Without David Scott we wouldn't have come to Scotland. A constable in south Leith, and a bobby during the coronation of King Edward VII, David Scott, Mike's great-grandfather, immigrated to Hoosick Falls, NY in 1913. One hundred years later, we made the return journey.

After calling on my more distant relative, David Scott's beat lured us southward again. This time our route from Waverley station carried us down hill and north, toward the Port of Leith where the Forth of Frith empties into the North Sea. We strolled down Leith Walk, the main artery from Edinburgh center to the port, past take-out shops and bars, florists and pharmacies. Pastries in a steamed window caught our eye, and at the counter we sifted through pence and pounds trading the coins for a paper bag already browning with a butter stain.

At Grand Junction we worked our way north and west past the South Leith Parish church, onto Tolbooth Wynd and out to the Water of Leith. And the river, finally, led us to the sea. We followed the harbor out to Ocean drive, past the government buildings and behind the terminal that berths cruise ships and the Royal Yacht Britannia. We rested on the sea-wall, gazing out across the entrance basin. The day was fine with a breeze off of the water, but David, and his Leith eluded us.

Perched on the end of a run down pier, amidst roosting terns and cormorants, stood a solitary figure, cast in solid iron, gazing, as we did, out to sea. Here, for us, was the emigrant David, looking to his new future, his back turned toward home. Why did he go, we wondered, when he had a good job and family here? What drew him away? What yearning so vividly written on this sculpture stirred his own soul?

We left "David" and meandered back, following the footpath along the Water of Leith. Couples strolled arm in arm, families sat tossing bread crumbs at ducks waiting in the current below. Men fished resting their poles on the stone wall. People walked dogs, rode bikes, and jogged. But 100 years ago, when David resigned his post as constable, and carried his letter of good conduct to the docks? What was Leith like then? Did he walk here along the waterway for work or for pleasure?

Below, measured along the route, several more cast iron figures posed; David followed the current to the sea. And with him, this silent solitary figure carried the unknowable answers to our myriad questions.

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