Jima

There is hiking in Jima, just ask the locals who will point to the two mountains that flank the town. Or, if you're looing for something more extensive, a guide can take you to nearby (a half-hour by camonteta) Bosque Protectors Moya Molón or Tambillo. Or take any road out of town. Each of the two we followed wound up a drainage to a pass, from which the vistas enticed us onward.

The land is gentler around Jima, and at least two-thirds of it is cleared for pasture or cropland. Crosses or churches anchor the summits of nearly every crest. Eucalyptus trees lined rivers and hugged the valleys. I hear there's an information center with additional information, but everyone we met was friendly and knowledgeable. I'm not sure a formal center was necessary.

Ramon welcomed us to town, and as the restaurants were closed for the holiday, he invited us to dinner should we need a meal (we had brought our own food, since we'd been planning to be in the backcountry.) Pablo detailed extensive treking options from the main trail along the crest of the moutain to a three day trek to the Amazon, through local villages where housing and meals would be available. A family buying groceries set us on the path for the hundred (or more) year old adobe church that looks over town from a nearby hilltop.


But Jima has another story as well. The town, for being a small agricultural hub, has many nice houses and new ones being built. The plaza is well-kept and clean. An artifical cascade lined with international flags graces one corner. The money comes from Jima's many citizens who have left not for Cuenca, but for the states. Miguel, his wife and two daughters were back for a visit, all four are now citizens of the US and return to Jima every year or so to see their families. Fifteen years ago Lucian worked his way north to Mexico and walked across the boarder. His son was born in New York and they've been "home" for six months. Our host at the Hostal Jima spent some time in New York City. All of them, and many others, sent part of their paycheck home every month.

I wonder at the toll of being in the US illegally, of not being able to return home for a visit. I wonder at the parents and children for whom "home" is sucha different place, not only geographically, but culturally and economically. And I feel so hugely blessed to be able to come and go, to travel to nearly any country I choose and often without even the need to ask permission to enter. I would return to Jima, for its friendly folks, and for its hiking, this time with a map and a few extra nights to stay. And who knows, if the restaurants are closed, maybe I'll take Ramon up on his offer and go to dinner.